Housing-Simple Aquarium
Axolotls are not demanding in their housing but it's important to keep in mind that an adult axolotl can reach a size from 18 to 35 cm in length (7-14 inches).
Shown below is an example of a simple set-up for one adult axolotl.
Shown below is an example of a simple set-up for one adult axolotl.
1) Home made mesh lid (not shown in picture)
2) Thermometer
3) Hang-on-back filter
4) Rock to disperse the filter outflow
5) Artificial plants
6) Hide area
7) Bare tank bottom (no gravel)
This aquarium has no lighting, but does normally have a lid to prevent axolotls leaping up and out of the tank. The shelter consist of a terracotta pot and small artificial plants. Filter outflow is spread around by the rock that is placed on the pot to prevent any possible currents. It is smart not to use medium sized rocks for axolotls as they might accidentally swallow it and kill them.
2) Thermometer
3) Hang-on-back filter
4) Rock to disperse the filter outflow
5) Artificial plants
6) Hide area
7) Bare tank bottom (no gravel)
This aquarium has no lighting, but does normally have a lid to prevent axolotls leaping up and out of the tank. The shelter consist of a terracotta pot and small artificial plants. Filter outflow is spread around by the rock that is placed on the pot to prevent any possible currents. It is smart not to use medium sized rocks for axolotls as they might accidentally swallow it and kill them.
Advanced Aquarium
For two or more axolotls a larger tank is needed. Shown below is an example that could easily house 6 adult axolotls or 12 young axolotls.
1) Lid (glass plates with handles);
2) Thermometer;
3) Filter intake (to canister filter)
4) Spray bar;
5) Many shelters and live plants;
6) Fine sand substrate;
7) Foam layer and sturdy tank support.
This aquarium has fluorescent lighting and a glass lid. Shelters is made up of rocks, pottery, driftwood, and live plants. The filter intake and outflow are on opposite ends of the tank to improve filtration. The outflow is dispersed by a spray bar to reduce stress to the axolotls and to also prevent currents. The bottom substrate is fine black sand. Large aquariums need a very sturdy support underneath. A layer of foam board under the tank will help to even out any uneven spots in the support.
2) Thermometer;
3) Filter intake (to canister filter)
4) Spray bar;
5) Many shelters and live plants;
6) Fine sand substrate;
7) Foam layer and sturdy tank support.
This aquarium has fluorescent lighting and a glass lid. Shelters is made up of rocks, pottery, driftwood, and live plants. The filter intake and outflow are on opposite ends of the tank to improve filtration. The outflow is dispersed by a spray bar to reduce stress to the axolotls and to also prevent currents. The bottom substrate is fine black sand. Large aquariums need a very sturdy support underneath. A layer of foam board under the tank will help to even out any uneven spots in the support.
Ground Cover
Axolotls have a very bad habit of getting normal aquarium gravel in their mouths, and sometimes swallowing it. This can be fatal because the gravel can cause blockages in the gut. It's rare, but not rare enough to be worth risking. If you use normal aquarium gravel you risk killing your axolotl.
Gravel-swallowing can be avoided by using gravel that is very large (larger than the animal's head). Since axolotls are messy,filters may difficulty cleaning waste and old, uneaten food that build up in gravel. If you do use gravel, it's a good idea to siphon the waste out of it.
As another option is fine sand as it will not clog the gut. Some people say that it is stressful for the animal if you just have a bare glass tank as they cant grip onto it. Plastic tanks don't give this problem as much because plastic is not as smooth as glass. Other alternatives for ground cover is to include flat pieces of rock covering a large portion of the tank bottom.Gravel that is glued into the bottom of the tank using aquarium sealant, or a simple layer of dark-coloured aquarium sealant in the bottom of the tank. Aquarium sealant should always be allowed to dry properly before water is added to the tank.
Gravel-swallowing can be avoided by using gravel that is very large (larger than the animal's head). Since axolotls are messy,filters may difficulty cleaning waste and old, uneaten food that build up in gravel. If you do use gravel, it's a good idea to siphon the waste out of it.
As another option is fine sand as it will not clog the gut. Some people say that it is stressful for the animal if you just have a bare glass tank as they cant grip onto it. Plastic tanks don't give this problem as much because plastic is not as smooth as glass. Other alternatives for ground cover is to include flat pieces of rock covering a large portion of the tank bottom.Gravel that is glued into the bottom of the tank using aquarium sealant, or a simple layer of dark-coloured aquarium sealant in the bottom of the tank. Aquarium sealant should always be allowed to dry properly before water is added to the tank.
Temperature
When caring for axolotls always use an aquarium thermometer. The water should be kept between 10 and 20 °C (50-68 °F). Anything below about 10 °C leads to more sluggish activity. At lower temperatures, axolotls will eat less frequently. They may even refuse to eat altogether.
Above 24 °C, axolotls become stressed, and such warm conditions will usually result in disease if sustained for a long period of time. Temperature changes of more than a few degrees Celsius in a 12 hour period (between night and day) can also be stressful. It's a good idea to keep the temperature stable on a day-to-day basis, even if it varies over the year with the seasons.
Above 24 °C, axolotls become stressed, and such warm conditions will usually result in disease if sustained for a long period of time. Temperature changes of more than a few degrees Celsius in a 12 hour period (between night and day) can also be stressful. It's a good idea to keep the temperature stable on a day-to-day basis, even if it varies over the year with the seasons.